La Ruta de Mezcal
As synonymous with Oaxaca as chapulines and mole, mezcal was and always will be first an indigenous spirit distilled from the hearts of wild agaves that grow across Oaxaca. Mezcal is a benediction, part of every important celebration and ceremony, offered first to those above before those gathered beneath the creator’s gaze. Mezcal conjures myths and legends, from the reclusive makers in hillside palenques to those who know where the most coveted and rare agaves grow.
Long before colonists arrived with their own distillation methods and tastes, there was an ancestral knowledge of how to coax spirit from the agave. Harvesting wild agaves, cooking them for days in deep pits and distilling in clay pots is the way many ancestral mezcaleros produced a few precious ounces of mezcal. Some producers still follow these methods, while others have adopted the copper stills that Europeans first brought with them to make brandies and spirits in the French style. Most of the mezcal we see today has a basis in common espadin agave, which is easily cultivated and harvested in a short growing cycle. But the rare wild species grow under secrecy and careful protection, both to make sure they are not stolen and to ensure that they continue to grow in their found environments.
Today’s trending demand for mezcal has left us with inferior production methods, unsustainable harvesting, and a heavy reliance on shortcuts to achieve what only time and experience can render. No chemical compound can ever produce the subtlety of a mezcal crafted by the hand of an experienced producer. For this reason, mezcal is not inexpensive and not intended to be enjoyed as a cocktail spirit. Its true essence can be appreciated by slow, deliberate sips, a reverent attitude, and an appreciation for the significance mezcal holds to the indigenous people who sustain its traditions.
We visit small family-run palenques operated by mezcaleros and mezcaleras who practice sustainable harvesting and distillation. We compare methods, agave types and flavor profiles while visiting with experienced masters across the Central Valleys. In the city we’ll direct you to the tasting rooms and experts who can expand your education and help you find the mezcal that truly calls to you.